Shocking a pool means adding a large dose of chlorine (or a non-chlorine oxidiser) to break down the gunk that weekly dosing can't touch โ€” sweat, sunscreen, urine, and chloramines that make the water smell 'too chlorinated'. Done right, it's the fastest way to get a tired pool sparkling. Done wrong, you waste money or damage the surface.

What Shocking Actually Does

Weekly chlorine keeps algae and bacteria in check. Shocking raises free chlorine high enough (typically 10 ppm or more) to oxidise combined chlorine โ€” the smelly, irritating stuff people think is "too much chlorine". It's usually the opposite: you can smell it because there isn't enough free chlorine left.

The three common types in Australia:

  • Calcium hypochlorite (cal hypo) โ€” granular, fast, cheap. Adds calcium. Don't use it in vinyl liners without dissolving it fully, and go easy if your hardness is already high.
  • Liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) โ€” easy to pour, no calcium, shorter shelf life. My default for most concrete pools.
  • Non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulphate) โ€” oxidises without raising chlorine. Useful for spas and when you want to swim sooner. It does not kill algae on its own.

When to Shock

  • The water looks dull or has a slight haze
  • You can smell chlorine, or eyes are stinging
  • After a heatwave, a party, or heavy rain
  • After a green-pool treatment, as a follow-up
  • As a weekly summer habit if the pool is used a lot

You don't need to shock every week in winter if the water is clear, chlorine is holding, and nobody is swimming.

How Much to Add

For a typical 50,000 litre pool, as a starting point:

SituationGranular shockLiquid chlorine
Maintenance / after a party500 g โ€“ 1 kg5 โ€“ 10 L
Cloudy or smelly1 โ€“ 2 kg10 โ€“ 15 L
Green pool (see green-pool guide)2 โ€“ 5 kg15 โ€“ 30 L

Always read the bag โ€” strengths vary. When in doubt, add half, wait overnight, test, then add more.

How to Do It

  1. Test and fix pH first. Shock into water above pH 7.8 and most of it is wasted. Target 7.2โ€“7.4.
  2. Wait until dusk. Sunlight burns chlorine off in hours. Night-time shock works overnight.
  3. Dissolve granular shock in a bucket of pool water โ€” never dump dry granules in one spot, especially on a liner or dark pebble.
  4. Pour around the deep end, away from the skimmer. Keep the pump running.
  5. Brush the walls and floor so the chlorine reaches every surface.
  6. Run the filter overnight. Clean or backwash in the morning if pressure has jumped.

Safety: Gloves, eye protection, old clothes. Never mix shock with acid or algaecide in a bucket. Don't swim until free chlorine is back under 5 ppm (ideally 1โ€“3 ppm).

After You Shock

Next morning, test free chlorine, pH and alkalinity. Expect pH to have moved. Let chlorine fall naturally with the pump running โ€” don't try to "neutralise" it unless you urgently need the pool that day. Then get back on your normal weekly dose.

Common Mistakes

  • Shocking at midday โ€” UV destroys it before it can work.
  • Dumping granules in one pile โ€” bleaches vinyl and stains pebblecrete.
  • Ignoring pH โ€” the most expensive way to do nothing.
  • Swimming the same evening โ€” wait for the test, not the clock.
  • Using non-chlorine shock on a green pool โ€” it won't kill the algae. You still need chlorine.
๐Ÿ‘จโ€๐Ÿซ
The Aussie Pool Professor
Nearly 40 years in the Australian pool industry. Based in Brisbane, QLD.

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